The National Rabbit Association of New Zealand

Rabbit club New Zealand


What are they?

The Dutch is a real Fancy Rabbit only breed for the show table and are one of the worlds best breed of pet rabbit. Dutch are found in the fancy section of the show. And a real challenge to breed, as breeding them is like breeding luck! One in 10 litters will normally find the show table.  They are a medium sized rabbit.

Do Dutch make good Pets?

Dutch are one of the most commonly kept pet rabbit breed world wide. They are known for their excellent temperament and personalities.  They make good children's pets and generally do not mind being picked up and can cope with a few bumps. This is one breed that the NRA recommend for a pet, On our pet scale Dutch get a 5 out of 5 as they have excellent temperaments & personality's

What to Look For when Buying?

A cobby body with two colours on it. The lines and shapes on this breed to be as clean cut as possible, the  straighter the line the better. The main markings are the Checks, Blaze (Between Eyes) Saddle (White on Shoulders) & Stop (White on feet.)

Dutch - Standard

Ring Size B



Ears 10

Eyes 5

Blaze )  4 Cheeks  ) 15

Clean Neck 10

Saddle 10

Undercut 10

Stops 15

Colour 10

Shape, Condition & Weight 15 

Total 100 



Ears - Short and strong, not pointed and fairly broad at their base.

Eyes - Bold and bright, fairly large.

Blaze - Wedged shaped, carrying up to a point between ears.

Cheeks - As round as possible and coming as near to the whiskers without touching. Also covering the line of the jawbone.

Clean Neck - Means free from coloured fur immediately behind the ears.

Saddle - Is the junction between white and coloured fur on the back. This line to continue right round the animal in an even straight line

Undercut - Continuation of the saddle. To be as near up to the front legs as possible without touching them

Stops - White markings on the hind feet about 3.17cm (1¼in) in length and to cut cleanly round the foot in a similar manner to the saddle and undercut.

Colour - See standard on colours.

Shape - (Type) and Condition - Compact, cobby, rounded. Shape also means type. Weight and condition also have a bearing on shape or type. The ideal weight of an Adult Dutch should be 2.041-2.26kg (4½-5lb). Hard and firm in flesh. Back well covered with firm flesh. Not baggy in belly. Skin tight; gloss on coat, bright eyes, lively, alert. 

DISQUALIFICATIONS - Wrong coloured eyes (see Colour Standard). Discoloured or wall eyes (pale blue iris), specked eyes (pale blue spots or specks on the iris). Coloured fur on the white part or white patches on the coloured parts. Flesh markings (usually on ears). Trimming (attempts to straighten out irregularities, dyeing white spots on coloured fur, etc) Malocclusion and mutilated teeth. 


Black - Deep, solid and carrying well down to the skin, with blue undercolour, the deeper the better. Free from white hairs and mealy or flecking. Eyes dark hazel.

Blue - Deep, solid, slate blue, colour to carry well down to the skin. Blue undercolour, the deeper the better. Free from white hairs and flecked or mealy coat. Eyes dark blue. Chocolate - Deep, solid, dark chocolate colour carrying well down to the   skin. Undercolour to match the top colour as near as possible. The deeper the under colour the better the top will appear. Free from white hairs and mealiness. Eyes chocolate or brown.

Lilac - To be pinky-dove top colour (even and sound) under colour to be dove. Eyes to be lilac with a ruby glow.

Yellow - An even shade of yellow on ears, cheeks, back and upper part of tail, to be carried well down sides, flanks and hind feet. Ideally free from chinchillation with no eye circles. Belly colour can be a lighter shade, toning with the top colour. Under tail to tone with belly. Eyes hazel.

Tortoiseshell - An even shade of orange top colour to carry well down and shading off to a lighter colour to the skin. Ears, belly and under the tail blue- black. Cheeks and hindquarters (flanks) shaded or toned with blue-black. Eyes hazel, the deeper the better.

Steel Grey - Dark steel grey merging to pale slate blue in the under colour. The whole interspersed with black guard hairs. The medium bright and evenly ticked shade is the one to aim for and the extreme tips of the fur will be tipped with steel blue or grey. The mixture to carry well down the sides, flanks, hind feet. Belly colour will be a lighter shade varying with the top colour, upper part of the tail to match the body colour, underside to tone with the belly colour. Ears to match body. Eyes deep hazel.

Brown Grey - Slate blue at the base followed by a band of yellowy orange then a black line, finishing by light or nut brown tips to the fur. The whole interspersed by black guard hairs. That is the impression gained when the fur of the brown grey is parted. The general impression should be light or nut brown on ears, cheeks, body, hind feet and top of tail, the whole ticked with black hairs. Belly colour and eye circles (small as possible), bright straw colour. A lighter shade permissible under tail. Eyes hazel, deeper the better.

Pale Grey - Top colour biscuit, carrying well down and merging into pale slate at the base. The whole interspersed with black ticking. The general impression should be biscuit ticked with black on ears, cheeks, body and top of tail. Belly colour white with pale slate under colour. Eye circle white but non-existent or small as possible. Body colour should be present on hind feet. Underside of tail white. Eyes hazel. 

DESCRIPTION OF TERMS USED: Flecking or Mealiness - Individual hairs more than one colour in self’s e.g. blacks should be black at the tip of the fur, that colour carrying down the fur as far as possible then merging into blue. In flecked or mealy exhibits the individual fur would be black, then dark grey then a deeper shade before merging into blue at the base. Chinchillation - A mixture of colours ticked with a darker shade. Often found on the cheeks of Yellows. The Steel Pale and Brown Grey are chinchillated varieties to a certain extent.

Chocolate Dutch